Who makes the best fried catfish in Vallejo?

VALLEJO – Vallejo has a taste for fried catfish.  There are at least a dozen independent, locally-owned restaurants, food trucks, and stores that fry the fish.  While most people have a favorite catfish hot-spot, if you don’t, you should think about getting one right away. 

At its best, fried catfish has a satisfyingly crunchy shell while at the same time, the fish is mildly flavored but with its own complexity, moist and tender inside.  One expects some level of complimentary flavors in the shell from cayenne heat and possibly an herb or two.  These flavors are moderated or enhanced by either a typical hot red tomato based dipping sauce for more heat or a piquant white tartar sauce to cool things off.  Squeezing lemon tartness on the crunchy shell is a must. 

Then there are the side dishes.  While fries are synonymous with “side dish” in most restaurants, it isn’t necessarily so with catfish.  Catfish may be accompanied by cornbread, green beans, collards, kale, macaroni and cheese or potato salad.  It’s often the sides that make going out for catfish in Vallejo a real local joy to experience.

Catfish is found around Vallejo and all across the spectrum of our ethnic diversity.  While it is a staple soul food and southern cooking, the flavors and recipes are also found in Mexican and Southeast Asian hot-spots, too.  

As June 25 is National Catfish Day, we tasted a sampling of local catfish proprietors. Here’s what we think are the best.

Noonie’s Place

Noonie’s, located at 2300 Sonoma Blvd.,features boldly crunchy nuggets with an explosive fresh catfish quality.   “It’s all about the fish, and we make our own seasoning to perfectly go with it,” chef Tara Beasley-Stansberry said.  Standard bottles of hot sauces and tarter compliment the nuggets.  The macaroni salad bursts with celery flavor.  That special seasoning? They sell it as “Whoomp Whamp Seasoning,” too. 96 points.

Chris’s Club

Chris’s Club, located at 656 Benicia Road, is rockin’ on a Friday night when the huge plate of true catfish arrives hot with what might be two whole potatoes for the side of fries.  “I like a light breading so the flavors of the catfish shine,” chef Mark Salter said, and that is exactly what you get.  This may be the best bar-food dish in all Vallejo.  It feels light, yet there is plenty of complex catfish tones that aren’t mucked up.  A pure and simple joy.  95 Points.

LV Vietnamese Pho and Sandwiches

Located at 2621 Springs Road, LV is a quiet, lovely restaurant.  The flat catfish carries gorgeous Vietnamese flavors with a hot, earthy, mouthwatering component that is just delicious.  Chef Ung mixes up his own classic sauce that you can’t stop eating.  Served with rice and a side of refreshing fresh vegetables like pickled slaw.   I’ll be going back for catfish pho soon.  95 points.

Sharkey’s Chicken & Fish

Located at 3730 Sonoma Blvd., this  brightly colored and well-lit restaurant will elevate anyone’s mood.  Boldly spiced nuggets with a light and fresh, almost beer batter coating with moderate-to-full cayenne heat.  It’s a very moist and mild fish at Sharkey’s that just makes everyone around the table nod and say, “This is delicious.”   Broad array of sides and packaged desserts.  94 Points

Epale Taqueria & Seafood

Located at 1780 Tuolumne St., Epale serves catfish with a boldly crunchy and crisp cornmeal shell that is perfectly mastered, leaving the fish inside moist and tender.  The shell is mildly flavored, as it should be.  With a squirt of lime (it’s a Mexican place of course!) this is really excellent.  I’ll be going back for catfish tacos, soon.  94 Points.

JJ’s Fish & Chicken

Located at 515 Fairgrounds Drive, a small portion at JJ’s is still a hearty meal.  Lightly breaded with a moderate crunch, this is a medium-thick shell.  It’s absolutely correct and with its own little zingy style.   94 Points.

CJ’s

Located at 4380 Sonoma Blvd. CJ’s features medium sized nuggets of real catfish that arrive hot, with a light cornbread coating.  In a comparative world, this feels nondescript, but actually, it’s just consistently fantastic underneath the flair of crunch or the pizzaz of sides – this is just a great catfish flavor. The macaroni side is a revelation with a little vinegar and pepper zoom. 93 points.

My Homestyle Cafe

My Homestyle Cafe at 523 Marin St. is one of our favorite restaurants.  From the joyous front desk cynicism of Nay Nay to the chef Evonne, the place is consistently excellent.  The flat catfish is blazing hot with a solid cornbread crunch.  Inside is the typical moist and tender fillets.  Condiments are commercial.  Yet Homestyle’s sides include a remarkable macaroni salad, arguably the best macaroni salad in Solano County.  A wonderfully satisfying meal.  92 points.

Elephant Thai

Elephant Thai at 3636 Sonoma Blvd, features lovely, fiery, flavorful steaks of lightly fried catfish, served in a bold hot red curry sauce makes this a joy for dinner, but you’ve gotta be ok with red curry heat.  Not for the meek or timid.  It’s a very good meal.  90 Points.

SoulTran’s Seafood

SoulTran’s, located at 651 Broadway, serves gorgeously flavorful and tender catfish nuggets with moderate cornbread shell that is neither too spicy or herbal.  SoulTran’s rendition out of the fryer feels like the freshest catfish nuggets in town.  97 Points.  Bravo!

Island Pacific Grocery

Island Pacific Grocery at 2110 Springs Road, serves a simple meal of just catfish, fresh and with a touch of salt.  Out in the parking lot with a mango drink, pickin’ on hot catfish is a great meal on the go for less than $10.  92 Points.