Ralph Jensen read our story about The Sardine Can and filled in the backstory: when the building went up and who was the first owner, all wrapped up in a delightful vignette of his childhood adventures.
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Back in the early 60’s the area from Mare Island Blvd. West was a huge wetlands. As kids we played out in the cat tails and black mud. By the time we were 10, we figured out how to lay down random driftwood so we wouldn’t sink hip deep in the mud. We laid out our secret path of wood to our “fort” and scrambled it when we left to keep out marauders. We named it Snow Island after the campsite of Disney hero Colonel Marion, nicknamed The Swamp Fox. Snow Island was a patch of real dirt about 40 feet in diameter that was consistently above the tidal level.
Somewhere mid 60’s, the city began rolling in trucks with dirt to form the levee where Zio Fraedo’s, the new harbor masters office, Yachtmaster’s, and the Sardine Can are presently sitting on, right on the site of our Snow Island. They poured dredge spoils from the Mare Island Straits to fill in the wetlands to grade it all above the tideline. After that they covered it all in topsoil, and there it stopped for many years and is still undeveloped. Do not ask me WHY!
As the construction continued, they began chasing us out, citing the danger of getting stuck in the mud and drowning. Their worry about the mud was funny to us, who had been going out there for so many years. The only issue we ever had was getting REALLY dirty.
My mom was tolerant and was just glad whenever I came home without any new scrapes. Her only rule was that I had to use ONLY the downstairs door, throw everything in the washer and use the downstairs shower before coming upstairs. My friends weren’t so lucky. One time we had to go to the nearby Coin-op laundry so they could wash their clothes before their mother saw them. Since I was safe the way I was, I gathered their clothes & ran in to start the washer. Then as they were now naked, I stood guard while they hid between the buildings. I gave them my shirts to cover up until the dry cycle was done.
With all the work going on this was eventually no longer as much fun, so we abandoned Snow Island to the progress of Vallejo. By that time we were playing more football at the huge park that used to be behind what is now City Hall.
Christ Papakostas, aka Chris, a Greek Immigrant and Vallejo businessman with several successful businesses, originally owned Navy Liquor on Tennessee St. As kids, it was where we would get Cokes, chips and candy. Chris was a great influence on our neighborhood. He preferred that we traded work rather than use our money. We thought it was weird that we could get “free stuff” for just sweeping, unloading trucks or stocking shelves. Little did we know he was giving us work ethic to carry through the rest of our lives!
Chris was very active in the community. Every 4th of July he would bring out his flatbed trailer and provide patriotic stuff for us kids to decorate it. He didn’t advertise anything on it, as he wanted it to be solely a project for the neighborhood kids to get involved in. Riding on it in the parade gave us civic pride and appreciation for our country.
As the planned municipal marina began to come together, Chris recognized a business opportunity. He secured a long term city lease for the land near the Causeway. He sold off Navy Liquor Store and brought a modular house to the Marina, where he opened the Sardine Can.
As teenagers with huge appetites, we craved his Greek chili and, especially, his “Marina Burger” that had not just fresh 1/3 lb. patties, but also pastrami and thick cheese. We could get them with as many as four patties on it, which was a particular favorite of my neighbor and friend, Neal Goveia.
As I said, Chris was active in the community and very smart. He attended city council meetings regularly, voicing his insightful opinions on many of Vallejo’s issues. The City Council did not like dissention or being exposed. This came back to bite him when he tried to expand past the original building of the Sardine Can. He couldn’t get ANY permits, as the city continually squeezed him over minor things.
In the 80’s he decided to open Ye Olde Briar Shoppe downtown on Marin St. to avoid the conflict. He sold off his interest in The Sardine Can to Nan DuValle, who had no problems getting a permit from the city to add the back deck and, later on, to put up a roof and close it in and to add the front deck.
Nan kept most of the food the same. Unfortunately for us, although she offered excellent burgers, she changed our beloved “Marina Burger” to a Sardine Sandwich. She ran the place until she sold it off to Mary Baxley, the present owner.
I will remain a regular as the food is consistently good, Mary is a wonderful person, and the stability of the friendly staff shows the mutual respect they have. I am looking forward to getting Sunday Jazz Back. Are you listening Ron McGee?
– By Ralph Jensen
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Isidra Mencos
Isidra Mencos, Ph.D. is the author of Promenade of Desire—A Barcelona Memoir. Her work has been published in WIRED, Chicago Quarterly Review and more. She reports on Vallejo's businesses and culture.
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